Shea Saunters

November 20, 2024

After three long days of travel I have arrived in Amman. I landed in Istanbul last night, which due to the time difference, felt like my morning. I spent 10 hours wandering the airport. It was tantalizing to be so close to the Red Sea and other destinations I have always wanted to witness, but knew visiting them at midnight wouldn’t be ideal.

Donate to sustain the work, here!

I expected to be interrogated more at the Jordan airport but the border officer passed me through swiftly. My initial plan was to go straight to my friend’s apartment, but after such an extensive journey I decided I needed some solitude to recuperate and be a blob. An Uber or taxi to a hotel halfway from the airport to my friend’s place was quoted to be about 70 USD (and the bus was taking forever to fill, which is required before it leaves the station) but thankfully I met a man outside the airport who offered to drive me there for 20. On our way he stopped to buy us coffee — the best coffee in Amman, he said — from a small roadside vendor.

Then, at last, I got to the hotel and took a glorious shower. The coffee gave me a small burst of energy to walk the neighborhood and order some chicken and what might have been barley from the nearest restaurant. I had been so nervous to return to the Mashriq that I honestly forgot how much I missed this region. The limestone buildings and olive trees and sunshine and melodic sounds of Arabic.

Once back at the hotel I tried to read, but fell asleep with my laptop on my stomach. I awoke an hour ago at 11 at night and am now sitting by the window watching the busy street. I trust I will be able to sleep again soon. I am weary but happy to be here.

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